FHA vs. Conventional Loans in the Inland Empire: Which Is Right for You in 2026?

By Idrees Khan, Mortgage Loan Officer · NMLS #694081 · Pacific Lending

The short answer: An FHA loan lets you put 3.5% down and is often more flexible on credit. A conventional loan lets qualified buyers put as little as 3% down and lets you cancel mortgage insurance later. In general, FHA tends to fit buyers who are still building their credit, and conventional tends to fit buyers with stronger credit or a bigger down payment. Which one costs less for you comes down to your credit, your down payment, and how long you plan to keep the loan.

"Should I go FHA or conventional?" is one of the questions I hear most from buyers here in Ontario and across the Inland Empire. It's a good question, because the answer can change your cash to close, your monthly payment, and how long you pay mortgage insurance.

The trouble is that most of what you'll read online is either too general or out of date. So here's how I walk my own clients through it, in plain English, with the 2026 numbers for our area.

FHA vs. conventional: what's the actual difference?

Both are common ways to finance a home. What sets them apart is who backs the loan:

  • FHA loans are insured by the Federal Housing Administration, which is part of HUD. That government insurance is why FHA can be more forgiving on credit and down payment.
  • Conventional loans aren't government-insured. Most of them follow the guidelines set by Fannie Mae and Freddie Mac. If you put less than 20% down, you'll usually carry private mortgage insurance (PMI).

Neither one is better across the board. Each is a tool, and the right one depends on your situation.

Side-by-side comparison

FHA loanConventional loan
Minimum down payment3.5% with a 580+ credit score; 10% with a 500–579 scoreAs low as 3% for eligible buyers (for example, first-time buyers or income-eligible programs)
Credit flexibilityGenerally more flexibleGenerally rewards stronger credit
Mortgage insuranceUpfront premium (1.75% of the loan) plus an annual premiumPMI when you put less than 20% down; no upfront premium
Can mortgage insurance go away?With less than 10% down, it usually stays for the life of the loan unless you refinance. With 10% or more down, it ends after 11 years.Yes. You can request removal at 80% of your home's original value, and it generally ends automatically at 78%.
2026 loan limit (1-unit), Riverside & San Bernardino Counties$690,000$832,750
Property standardsFHA appraisal has its own property condition requirementsStandard appraisal requirements

Program guidelines change and can vary by lender. This table is a general overview, not a commitment to lend.

Down payment: 3% vs. 3.5%

On paper, conventional wins by half a percent. Here's what that looks like on an illustrative $600,000 Inland Empire home:

  • 3% conventional: $18,000 down
  • 3.5% FHA: $21,000 down

But the down payment is only part of the story. Many of my clients pair either loan with down payment assistance, which may cover some or all of the down payment and sometimes closing costs, depending on the program and your eligibility. If cash to close is what's holding you back, start with our down payment assistance options and our First-Time Buyer's Down Payment Playbook.

Mortgage insurance: the difference most people miss

This is where FHA and conventional really split apart, and it's the part I spend the most time on with buyers.

How FHA mortgage insurance (MIP) works

FHA loans have two layers of mortgage insurance:

  1. Upfront MIP of 1.75% of the base loan amount. Most borrowers roll it into the loan instead of paying it at closing.
  2. Annual MIP, paid monthly. For most 30-year FHA loans with less than 5% down, it's currently 0.55% of the loan per year.

Using that same illustrative $600,000 home with 3.5% down, the base loan is $579,000. The upfront MIP comes to about $10,133, and the annual MIP starts at roughly $3,185 a year, or about $265 a month. Your actual figures will depend on your loan amount, term, and down payment.

One FHA feature works in your favor: the MIP rate doesn't change with your credit score. A borrower with a 600 score and a borrower with a 760 score generally pay the same rate.

The trade-off is how long it lasts. With less than 10% down, FHA MIP generally stays for the life of the loan. The usual way out is to refinance later, once you've built equity and if it makes sense at the time.

How conventional PMI works

Conventional PMI has no upfront premium. Instead, the monthly cost is priced on your credit score and down payment. Strong credit plus a larger down payment generally means cheaper PMI, and lower scores can make it noticeably more expensive.

The big plus is that PMI isn't permanent. Under the federal Homeowners Protection Act, on most conventional loans for a primary residence you can ask your servicer to cancel PMI once your balance is scheduled to reach 80% of your home's original value. It generally has to end automatically at 78%, as long as you're current on your payments.

My rule of thumb: If your credit is still a work in progress, FHA's flat MIP often comes out ahead. If your credit is strong, conventional PMI may cost less each month and can eventually go away. I run both side by side for every client so you can see the real numbers for your situation.

Credit score: how much does it matter?

FHA guidelines allow financing with a credit score as low as 500, but you'll need 10% down below 580. Scores of 580 and up qualify for the 3.5% minimum. Lenders can also set their own standards on top of FHA's, so what you qualify for depends on your full profile.

Conventional loans generally reward higher scores with better pricing and cheaper PMI. Credit scores are only one piece, though. Income, debts, savings, and the property all matter.

If you're not sure where you stand, that's fine. Talking with me starts with no credit check, and we can map out what you can do now versus a few months from now.

2026 loan limits for the Inland Empire

Loan limits cap how much you can borrow under each program. For 2026, for a single-family (1-unit) home:

  • FHA, Riverside and San Bernardino Counties: $690,000
  • Conventional (conforming), Riverside and San Bernardino Counties: $832,750, which is the national baseline
  • Los Angeles and Orange Counties: $1,249,125 for both FHA and conforming

Here's why that matters locally. If you're shopping in the upper price ranges of the Inland Empire, the FHA limit may come into play sooner than you expect. Once your loan amount goes above $690,000, FHA isn't an option for that home in Riverside or San Bernardino County, but a conforming conventional loan may still be.

When FHA might make more sense

  • Your credit score is below the mid-600s, or you've had some credit bumps.
  • Your debt-to-income ratio is on the higher side.
  • You'd pay a lot more for conventional PMI because of your score.
  • Your loan amount fits within the FHA limit for your county.

When conventional might make more sense

  • Your credit is strong, so PMI may be priced lower.
  • You can put 5–20% down, or you want mortgage insurance that can eventually go away.
  • Your loan amount is above the FHA limit but within the conforming limit.
  • You're buying a home that might have a hard time meeting FHA's property standards.

Are you a teacher, nurse, firefighter, or police officer? Ask me about our Hero Program, which may offer extra home-loan incentives on top of the right loan type.

Frequently asked questions

Is FHA only for first-time buyers?

No. FHA loans are available to repeat buyers too, as long as the home will be your primary residence and you meet the program guidelines.

Can I switch from FHA to conventional later?

Often, yes. Many homeowners start with FHA and refinance into a conventional loan once they've built equity and their credit has improved, which may let them drop mortgage insurance. Whether that makes sense depends on rates, costs, and your situation at the time. If you're there now, see our rate and term refinance page.

Which loan has lower monthly payments?

It depends. Rates, mortgage insurance, and your loan amount all play a part. For some borrowers FHA comes out lower, and for others conventional does. The only way to know is to compare real quotes for your scenario side by side.

Do I need 20% down to avoid mortgage insurance?

On a conventional loan, putting 20% down generally avoids PMI. On an FHA loan, you'll pay MIP no matter how much you put down.

How do I find out which loan I qualify for?

Start with a quick conversation. I'll look at your goals, credit, and budget and show you FHA and conventional options next to each other, so you can choose with confidence.

Let's compare your options

You don't have to figure this out alone, and you don't have to commit to anything to get answers. I'll lay out FHA and conventional for your price range in plain English, including what each one may mean for your cash to close and monthly payment.

Call or text me at (909) 605-3844, email ikhan@paclending.com, or start the 1-minute request at paclending.info. No obligation, and no credit check to start.


This article is for educational purposes only and is not a commitment to lend, a loan approval, or financial advice. Loan programs, limits, mortgage insurance premiums, and guidelines are subject to change and vary by lender and borrower qualifications. All figures are illustrative; your actual terms will depend on your credit, income, property, and other factors. Rates and terms are not guaranteed. 2026 loan limits are from FHFA and HUD and were current at the time of writing.

Idrees Khan, NMLS #694081 · Pacific Lending, LLC, NMLS #1156766 · 3800 Concours St, Suite 160, Ontario, CA 91764 · View the states where Pacific Lending is licensed · Equal Housing Opportunity.

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